To the Outback and Far North Queensland and return via the coast
Day 1, July 14 Chinchilla
We left the Gold Coast hinterland at 8:30am towing our 2019 Jayco Journey Outback caravan for a 6000 kilometre trek around Queensland. We met up with Gary and Pam Moloney, (brother-in-law and Colleens’ sister) with their 2013 Jayco Discovery Outback at the Jondaryan Pub roadside rest area on the Warrego Highway. It was a bitterly cold mid July morning with a maximum of 150 C predicted for Toowoomba city and indeed it was 90 C as we crested the new Toowoomba bypass second crossing of the range at Mt Kynoch at 10:30am.
From Jondaryan the vans headed to Chinchilla Weir free camp to meet up with another couple, Garys’ sister, Jill and her husband Ian Gillam from Toowoomba towing their brand new 2020 Avida Topaz van on it’s maiden journey.
The Moloneys and Walkers arrived at Chinchilla around 2:00pm and fuelled up both tow vehicles and drove to the weir camping spot south of town on the Tara road, arriving about 2:30pm. Here we found Ian and Jill already set up in a good spot. None of the three vans required power as they’re set up to operate ‘off-grid’, so we positioned our rigs around a central fireplace in a U shape! Later we all went for a short walk to the area where limited powered sites were located. Nice clean free camp area close to the water where some locals were trying their luck fishing from a small jetty and other campers were already setting up BBQ’s, spit roasters and various other methods of cooking their night time meals. We took a few photos around the area and walked back to camp where we decided what to eat for dinner and the method we’d use to make our first meal on our month long trip.
Gary and I fabricated two slide-in aluminium BBQ holders, one for each van for our Weber Baby Q’s prior to leaving home. The slide arrangement was made to fit inside the galvanised RHS of the caravan chassis and lock in via a push fit and friction set up which worked a treat. Easy access to the gas bayonet mount fitted to the underside of both vans made for a great cooking set up. The decision was made as to dinner on the first night – barbecues for the two Jayco vans and a pre-prepared meal for the Avida Topaz vanners! A camp fire was started from scraps of wood brought from home and the odd bit of dead timber lying around plus some fire logs from Bunnings made from recycled materials. Easy to get the fire going with fire-lighters with the added bonus that camp fires are handy to get rid of rubbish paper, cardboard and scraps – just make sure the fire-pit is properly extinguished before leaving the campsite in the morning.
Day 2, July 15 Mitchell
Colleen and I went for an early morning walk to the toilets on the eastern end of the campground while frost (not quite ice) lay on the grass. Breakfast was prepared and eaten by 8am and all three vans were ready to hit the road towards Mitchell by 8:30am.
Arrived at Major Mitchell Caravan park on the Maranoa River in the early afternoon after a lunch time stop at the Big Rig in Roma. The avo smash with balsamic on toasted sourdough at the Big Rig café was awesome!
Drove around town and checked out the old Mitchell Courthouse where Australias’ last bushrangers, the Kenniff Brothers were tried for murder in 1903. Later we went out to the free camp on the Maranoa River at the Neil Turner Weir – lots of vans there! Another free camp just up the river at Fishermens Rest was also well used by the gray nomads. Later in the afternoon while the other intrepid travellers prepared the evening meal, I drove out about 7km on the St George road to see the monument to the outback policemen and the bushrangers at Arrest Creek where the brothers were arrested in 1902.
Very early the next morning a group of people were about to leave the park to drive to the Beetoota pub with all their supplies, fridges, equipment and food etc to open it up again after a 3 month closure due to the COVID-19 shutdown. The family from Logan who owned the pub had a fully loaded Ford F150, an old 1952 International truck and on a trailer was a restored blue Model T Ford tourer, sign written with the Beetoota Pub logo. A long drive over two days from Logan to get out to Beetoota in the Corner Country. Hope to get out to see that pub on a future trip.
Day 3, July 16 Tambo
Hit the road to Augathella and Tambo early with very few trucks or cars on the highway. Minimal roadkill compared to earlier trips out west and surprisingly very few grasshoppers, moths and other insects to splatter the windscreens and vans. Arrived in Tambo and checked out the town, including the old fire engine on display and Tambo Teddies. I cunningly went back into the teddy bear shop when the rest of the crew walked around town and bought a little lambs wool cuddly teddy for our future grandson. Just before we left home we found out our youngest son Dane and his wife Ellie were expecting a baby (their first) in February 2021 but we were sworn to secrecy. It wasn’t until day 22 of this trip that we found out the sex of the baby.
After spending some time in Tambo we all headed out only 2 kilometres to the Stubby Bend free camp on the Barcoo River and set up camp by mid afternoon. Nice spot with a great sunset view. I broke out Jades (our eldest sons’) camp oven and cooked up some small potatoes wrapped in alfoil. While the spuds were cooking I put a small amount of meat as bait in my opera house yabby trap and tied it off on a tree and threw the trap into the Barcoo. Two hours later I came to retrieve it and found only one decent size yabby in there along with a very small juvenile. They were tossed back in later, after photos of course!
We took tome great photos that night around the campfire, the sunset and of the starry night sky. We also celebrated Pam and Garys 70th birthdays – Gary on July 7th and Pam still to have her celebration on August 3rd.
Day 4 to 6, 17th – 19th July Longreach
All three vans headed to Longreach for a three night stopover. We drove through Blackall and Barcaldine on the way to Longreach. A stop in Barcaldine for fuel, food and to take photos of the famous Tree of Knowledge where the shearers strike in the late 1890s was the catalyst that started the union movement and the formation of the Australian Labor Party.
Just 28 kilometres south of Longreach is the little town of Ilfracombe. We had a short stop here and checked out the local history, of which the townspeople are very proud. They have a great museum and historical display which stretches a mile long (the machinery mile) featuring lots of machinery, drilling rigs, old trucks and vintage tractors from the early 20th century as well as a huge gun collection from both world wars.
Longreach is a great western town where you can catch up on Australias’ outback history, including the history of Qantas at their museum, a new night time light show called Longreach Luminesence and the Stockmans Hall of Fame on the opposite side of the Landsborough highway. An added bonus on the morning of our Qantas museum tour was that a trio of warbird planes were on the tarmac. Having flown from Brisbane a couple of days prior and landing at Charleville before heading to Longreach.
The Qantas museum has some amazing historic pieces on display including audio visual information from the early 1900’s to the 1990’s. Hudson Fysh, Dr John Flynn, Charles Kingsford-Smith, Charles Ulm, Sir James Walker, Nancy Bird and many other luminaries from Australias’ flying past were all displayed there on celluloid, video, print, interactive screens and other media for visitors to peruse. There were also mock ups of flying machines where you could sit in or behind the planes and try to fly and/or land them. The Catalina flying boat outside the building was an actual Navy plane set up for reconnaissance work in WW2. Unfortunately there was a planned power outage on the Saturday we were there so all ‘tourists’ had to exit by 10am. We have been to the museum on earlier occasions and still haven’t seen all there is to see.
Later in the evening we all went to the new Longreach Luminescence show where more historic footage of Qantas through the years, including war footage was thrown up onto the fuselage of the static display 747, a restored Douglas DC3 and the tri-tailed Constellation, all under the huge purpose built covered ‘hangar’. A fantastic show and one every visitor to Longreach should see.
After the night show at the Qantas museum we all went out for dinner at a pre-booked table at the RSL club. Very nice club and friendly staff.
Day 6, July 19 Longreach
Still in Longreach and this time it was an early start to visit the famous Stockmans Hall of Fame at 9am. Well, not quite as early as me as I went for a return walk from the caravan park in the cool morning air to take sunrise photos at the Qantas hangar. Some great shots captured of the sun rising behind the tail of the 747 and the Constellation. From there I sauntered across to the Stockmans Hall of Fame to take yet more photos before people arrived for the first show some two hours later.
Gary and Pam hadn’t ever ventured further west than about Dalby, (Gary did work at the Millmerran Power Station some years ago) so this trip to the Outback was a first in many ways.
Day 7, July 20 Winton
Off to Winton further north on the Landsborough highway. A few emus and brolgas as well as roos and cattle were spotted along the way but no sheep – anywhere. All gone off to market or agisted elsewhere or the mobs were downsized in the current economic climate.
Arrived in Winton around 2:00pm and checked off our reservations for three caravan spots at the Tattersalls Hotel caravan park. The caravan park is run by the pub and it’s right across the road. Power, water, nice amenities in a demountable building with the free washing machines located outside in the weather! The local artesian bore water was a bit on the nose due to the hydrogen sulphide smell from the bore water but ok to drink once boiled. Ian, Gary and I had drinks at the Tatts that afternoon and later at the North Gregory pub in the main street across the road. Live entertainment in the form of a bush poet, Gregory North (at the North Gregory??!!) and to follow Gregory up, a singer guitarist who was very good. Unfortunately, ‘very good’ didn’t describe Gregorys’ performance! Drinks and a good pub meal, then a surprise birthday cake with candles and sparklers for Pam and Garys’ birthdays back at the van park.
In the morning I rose early as usual but this time it was to check out the Channel 9 Today show team broadcasting Queenslands’ weather live from the main street of Winton with their anchor-man Tim Davies and TV crew. I managed to get Tim to record a selfie video shout-out to Pam and Gary for their 70th birthdays from outside the local bakery just before they went to air and crossed to Karl Stefanovic live in the studio. Thanks Tim and the Channel Nine crew for their hospitality and also to the local baker who provided the melting moments for everyone to enjoy – delicious!
Day 8, July 21 Winton
Drove up to the ‘Jump up’ in two vehicles, 25 km from Winton to see the Australian Age of Dinosaurs set up. What a fantastic addition to the tourist destination since last visiting in 2014! The Canyon Walk, the dinosaur sculptures right along the walk, the shuttle buses to and from the canyon, the laboratory changes – all well worth the admission price of $50. Another must-do in the outback.
Day 9 and 10, July 22 and 23 Hughenden and Porcupine Gorge National Park
Pam and Gary parted company here and headed back south to Barcaldine and east from there towards Rockhampton and down the coast to SE Queensland via Bargara and Cotton Tree.
Ian and Jill, Colleen and myself continued our journey north and drove to Hughenden where we checked in to the Visitor Information Centre and booked an extra night at Porcupine Gorge National Park in the Pyramid campground. Bargain at $6.60 per person per night. The Visitor Info people were very helpful. We had lunch at the new lakeside park in town and returned there 2 days later to check out the still standing coolibah tree where Fredrick Walker and others left a survey blaze mark on the tree in the late 1800’s on the search for the ill-fated Burke and Wills expedition.
The drive to Porcupine Gorge National Park was great until we were waved down by a vehicle load of locals heading towards us saying there was hail ahead in the heavy rain which we encountered just a few kilometres prior to seeing them. The rain was so hard we had to pull over to the shoulder with our headlights and hazard lights on. After a few minutes we were game enough to proceed. Rain continued fairly heavily for a few more kilometres and then eased off. We drove into the National park campsite just as the rained stopped. Set up camp in the reddish mud but no real dramas. Went for a walk to check the surroundings and see where the bush walks started for the next day.
Sat around the camp fire with Jill and Ian after dinner and watched the stars come out after the clouds cleared. Early night tonight as we planned on doing a long walk to the base of Porcupine Gorge the next day.
There are two basic walks in Pyramid campground – one short one of about 800 metres to the SE to view down into the gorge and the other a quite long, one hour one to the base of the Pyramid along Porcupine Creek. Colleen opted to do the short one – twice, once on the first day and again the next day. The remaining three of us did the long walk the next day. It was quite a challenge going down and back with hundreds of hand-made rock steps along the way but it was totally worth it as we got some awesome photos and videos of the creek and surrounding landscape.
Day 11, July 24 Bivouac Junction
Traveled from Porcupine Gorge National Park back down to Hughenden and headed east to Charters Towers to our next overnight stop just NE of there at Bivouac Junction park situated at the junction of the Fanning and Burdekin Rivers. This was not one of our best camp spots! The place was a bit run down with no numbered or marked out areas. The power situation wasn’t good as it tripped out all the time and we ended up moving sites to where the power would work.
Day 12, July 25 Balgal Beach
We headed off early towards Townsville and points further north to arrive at our next one night stop over at Balgal Beach free camp. We got separated by red traffic lights coming through Townsville so Ian and Jill had a ‘cooks tour’ of sorts and got back on the highway after a short time to catch up with us at Balgal Beach, right on the beach in a prime position with a park, bbq’s and fantastic view right outside our vans.
Fish ‘n chips at the local café on the water.
Day 13, July 26 South Mission Beach
From Balgal Beach we headed north on the Bruce Highway to our 4 night stop over at South Mission Beach staying at the Big 4 Beachcomber caravan park. This was a great spot to relax, swim, snorkel, view the beautiful islands of the Great Barrier Reef including Dunk Island just a 10 minute boat ride away and generally chill out. We had coffee and snacks at a cool little café at Bingil Bay one day and went for a couple of walks to Lugger Point along the boardwalk and through the bush on another day and the next day, a long and strenuous trek to the top of Bicton Hill. Great views from up there looking out to the cane farms and the islands.
The Cassowary Coast is well named as we encountered a large cassowary crossing the road just as we drove into South Mission Beach. Great caravan park right on the water with the resident cassowary strolling through the park late each afternoon around wine o’clock.
Day 14, 15, 16, 27th – 30th July
Caught up with an old school friend of Colleens from Toowoomba who has been living in North Queensland for over 30 years. They now manage the Island Coast motor vehicle dealership, originally Holden but now selling Holdens, Ford and Mitsubishi. Gail and Brian picked us up from the caravan park and took us to the North Mission Beach tavern for dinner. It was good to catch up as the previous time we saw them was at Coolangatta over 12 months earlier and prior to that was over 20 years ago!
Day 17, July 30 Paronella Park
Left Jill and Ian at South Mission beach and we headed to Paronella Park near Innisfail. We visited this amazing place back in 1983 and in the late 1990’s the whole complex was bought by a local family and ‘restored’ to it’s glory days from the 1930’s and 40’s. The castle and everything at the location was built by one man, Jose Paronella and it opened to the public in 1935 as an up market venue for weddings, celebrations, a restaurant and general tourist destination etc. They now have day and night tours and free parking for your caravan van if you purchase a ticket to go through the park. We did the day and night tour and stayed overnight in the van. What a remarkable place and a great testament to the Spanish emigrant who made his fortune in mining around Cloncurry and later on buying and selling cane farms around the Johnstone River, Innisfail area to pay for the building of this remarkable place.
Day 18, July 31 Port Douglas
More northwards driving towards Cairns and todays’ destination; Port Douglas.
Colleen and I arrived just ahead of Ian and Jill as they left South Mission Beach this morning whereas we left from Paronella Park.
After setting up our van sites we drove up to Flagstaff Hill, the highest point around Port Douglas town, to admire the view down to the beach. We then drove down Wharf Road to the water and walked around the park, went in and took photos at St Marys on the Sea church and Port Douglas town. The town was very quiet compared to previous time we’ve visited. This was mainly due to Covid-19 and the border restrictions/closures. After checking out the wharf we had drinks at the Tin Shed, a great venue we’ve been to back in 2003, albeit much updated. We decided to also book a table for four for the next evening for dinner on the deck.
Day 19, August 1st Port Douglas/Mossman
Mossman Gorge – this place has changed a lot since visiting in 2003. There is now a dedicated shuttle bus to take tourists to and from the new information centre to the gorge and walking area. The tracks have been substantially upgraded and there is now a suspension bridge across the gorge. $12 admission fee covers the return shuttle bus journey and it’s money well spent as the facilities and the walkways are first class. The scenery along the walks and in the Mossman River gorge is beautiful. Quite a few foreign tourists taking advantage of the super clear water for a swim in the boulder strewn Mossman River – too cold for us Aussies though!
Day 20, 21, 22, Aug. 2 and 3 Cooktown
All four of us drove in Ians’ Toyota Land Cruiser to Cooktown via the Peninsula Developmental Road (Mulligan Highway) and back to Port Douglas via the coastal road (The Bloomfield Track). Ian just happened to be a bit tired from driving just before we encountered the Bloomfield Track – all 30 kilometres of just that – a windy steep track with multiple creek crossings! However, only 15 years ago it was literally a 4WD track with over 60 kilometres of gravel and going the inland route there was about 70 kilometres unsealed.
The Lions Den Hotel just south of Cooktown is a well known Aussie bush pub. It was quite well attended when we drove past with some cool hot rods and street machines on a cruise there.
Day 23, Aug 4 Forrest Beach
Ian and Jill stayed an extra four nights in Port Douglas while Colleen and I started our journey back south on the Tuesday, 4th August. Our first night on the southern leg was spent at Forrest Beach out from Ingham. Nice spot on the coast with a little gem of a hotel tucked away behind the sand dunes only 300 metres from our free ($10/night) camp. There’s a well stocked local store, newsagent and café and a committee member from the progress association comes around in the afternoon to check the van sites have been paid for (at the Venables real estate agents office across the road).
Day 24, Aug 5 Plantation Creek Boat Ramp
The next day we headed to Plantation Creek free camp 12.5 kilometres NE from Ayr. Approximately five kilometres of nicely graded gravel road to get to the camp spot. This was a very quiet camp where a few fisherman lived in caravans and locals as well as tourists come to try their luck fishing in the creek. Beware crocodile signs right along the creek and at the boat ramp.
Our son Dane rang us at this camp and informed us they were expecting a baby boy. Great news so we celebrated with a couple of drinks.
Day 25, Aug 6th Collinsville detour
Drove out to Eltons nieces’ paint horse stud, Peli Creek at Collinsville and dropped in for smoko. Wendy was very obliging and we had a quick catch up in the shade behind the house with two of her helpers. Wendy is a very talented artist as well as a horse trainer. Lots of coal trains on the Bowen Collinsville road.
Day 25 and 26, Aug 6th and 7th Seaforth
Next stop was Seaforth on the beach north of Mackay near Halliday Bay and Cape Hillsborough. The last time we were here the road was partly gravel and our eldest son Jade was about 15 months old – he’s now 38! We came in via the Mt Ossa – Seaforth road which is only 17 kilometres from the highway, of which about 9 kilometres was gravel but in quite good condition even though there was some rain coming down at the time. It saved about 20 minutes of drive time rather than turning further south on the Bruce Highway.
Due to the light rain, we had a couple of quiet lay days apart from driving to the boat ramp and around the Halliday Bay area. This area has developed a lot since our (tent) visit in 1983 and we even found our original camp spot at Halliday Bay – it’s now a caravan park and golf course!
Day 27 Aug 8 Yaamba
Overnight stop at a free camp on the side of the Bruce Highway north of Rockhampton. Not much to see or do here. The local pub was closed due to COVID-19.
Day 28 and 29, Aug 9th and 10th Woodgate
After our two days at Seaforth we ventured further south to one of our favourite destinations along the east coast of Queensland – Woodgate, for another two nights. Still a quiet little village right on the beach north of Burrum Heads and south of Bargara. Our school teacher friends from Oxenford escaped to Woodgate 20 years ago after retiring and are still loving the quiet life, fishing and boating along the coast line and at Theodolite Point on the northern end of town. The NRMA tourist park is a great caravan park – quite huge overall with sites suitable for large vans, motorhomes, small vans, tents, it also has cabins and cottages as well as a couple of full sized houses for rent adjacent to the park. The beaches are beautiful here and you can drive on the beach without a permit. A nice short drive to Walkers Point on the southern tip of the Woodgate gives a good view of Burrum Heads across the mouth of Burrum River. A future bridge across to Woodgate from Burrum Heads/Toogoom area would mean a journey of less than 5 minutes, however by road it’s over 60 minutes and 90 kilometres!
Day 30 and 31, Aug 11th and 13th Inskip Point
Our last camp site for the month long trip was at Inskip Point right near where the vehicle barges go across to K’Gari (Fraser Island).
We were booked into MV Beagle campground however we were informed via email earlier in our trip that this area was being cleared of dangerous dead trees and that we were transferred to MV Sarawak West. This turned out to be a good move as we managed to jag a really good spot tucked in under some she oaks and coastal dune trees between the protected water and the eastern beach side – both about 100 metres from the water. Spent some quality time here before heading home on the final leg of what was one of our most memorable caravan trips in eight years.
Now to start planning the next one!
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